We, three families, myself and my wife Bhupinder, Col SL Gautam and his wife and Col KJ Singh and his wife visited Kashmir Valley from 01 to 06 September. It was election time. We visited Srinagar, Dal Lake, Chashme Shahi, Gulmarg, and Khundru (near Achhabal). We also saw the ruins of the Ancient Martand Temple. The following article was based on what we experienced there :-
The Mood in
the Valley
After a 12-year gap, we had the chance to visit Kashmir. Much has been discussed regarding the benefits of removing Article 370, yet the everyday lives of locals seem largely unchanged. Infrastructure has improved but remains a work in progress. Despite being an election season, the usual buzz was absent; hardly any posters were visible in the Valley, which is a positive for the environment. Security measures have tightened significantly, especially around Badami Bagh Cantonment, where entry now involves multiple checks, each taking five to seven minutes. If you're in a civilian vehicle, expect an even more rigorous screening process. Even veterans with identity cards must endure the same scrutiny. Given the region's history, one can either accept this with resignation or a smile.
On our
way to Gulmarg, we stopped for tea at a roadside hotel. I struck up a
conversation with a young man managing the counter, who was pursuing a
postgraduate degree while running the hotel. When I asked about life
post-abrogation of Article 370, he shared a litany of complaints: unemployment,
poverty, corruption, poor roads, and inadequate electricity and water supply. I
gently reminded him that these issues are common throughout India. He expressed
frustration over the promises made to resolve these problems after the removal
of Article 370. Although I had no solid reply, I noted the nature of political
promises, which did little to pacify him. His application for a bank loan to
expand and renovate his hotel was stuck because he couldn’t afford the bribe
asked in advance. His disillusionment was palpable as he declared, “Sab
jhoothey hain” (all are liars). Others, including a carpet weaver, a Kahwa
seller, and a boatman, shared similar stories of hardship.
Our
driver, a sharp young man, was eager to drive at breakneck speed whenever
possible. During the final leg of our trip, we stayed at an army camp in
Eastern Kashmir, needing to catch a flight the next day from Srinagar. Trusting
his assurance, we agreed to leave by 9 AM for our 1 PM flight. Instead of
taking the longer, traffic-free route, he chose a shorter path through Anantnag
town, where we soon found ourselves stuck in a traffic jam. Anxiety etched on
our faces, we began blaming him for the potential missed flight. He confidently
insisted he would get us there by 11 AM, no matter what.
After a
tense struggle to escape the traffic, he hit the accelerator and drove
recklessly. We clung to our seats, pleading for him to drive safely, but our
words fell on deaf ears. It was a relief when we finally reached the Srinagar
bypass, yet he didn’t slow down until we arrived at the outer check post of the
airport. Just as he braked, he triumphantly held his mobile phone in front of
us, displaying the time: 10:59 AM.
Defiance
seems to be the prevailing mood in the Valley. Locals may have taken a cue from
Punjab, where the victories of two hardliner MPs symbolized a pushback against
the central government. The Kashmir Valley, already energized by Engineer
Rashid's win, may see more unexpected candidates emerge in response to the
hardships endured during lockdowns and the rollback of Article 370. As noted by
The Tribune's editor on September 21, surprises are awaited.
The article can be viewed by clicking on this link A taste of defiance in Kashmir
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